caraoNet

Charlotte, North Carolina

An evil son has emerged in Charlotte…

You probably know that Italian is my favorite cuisine, and you probably also know that I am usually not kind to Italian restaurants all over the world because besides being the most widespread cuisine, it is also the most bastardized. There are very few examples of what I consider to be impressive, authentic Italian fare.

One of these examples comes from the Queen city; a city that in spite of being a very small city, it has surprisingly good food brewing in its dining rooms. And it comes as the form of an evil child; born out of the incredibly boring Lucce and the somewhat creative but overpriced Toscana. Both restaurants that I’ve visited many times in Charlotte trying to find something to cling to every time I was in the mood for good Italian food. Well, as it turns out, the first born of this couple just did what its parents would never even dream of: prompt an outstanding out of my mouth. And why? Maybe it is because Chef Lopez doesn’t see Italian cuisine the same way everybody else; he’s not cooking for the larger American family; he’s cooking for the true and authentic flavors regardless of what Mr. & Mrs. Smith would say about it. Really authentic flavors are difficult to find in this country, but you only need to show up in downtown Charlotte to know what they are. And I must, out of simple exhilaration, mention two of these gems that are driving what I write right now. First is the Prosciutto & Mozarella Appetizer. Simple enough, right? Wrong. This is simply the best mozzarella you will find south of Manhattan (not because Mozarella in New York is any good but because it is the only other place I know in the US that imports mozzarella weekly from Italy), and that is just enough for me; not eating that rubberized and tasteless cheese that is the norm everywhere else: perfect. Second are two pastas on the regular menu: the Spaghettini alla ragu di bosco e porcini, and the Tagliatelle verdi al prosciutto. Perfect pasta (al dente, always), true and strong flavors, inviting aromas, everything exactly as it should be down to the great Tuscan bread and gorgeous paring with Italian wines. In other words, this is what Italian food means to me, and to be honest there are very few places in Atlanta, New York or Italy for that matter, that combine all the elements in such a splendid arrangement.

If it were a little more ambitious, I would definitely give it all the three stars in the world. But then again, maybe it is simplicity what make perfection.

Highly Recommended; best in Charlotte (Coco Osteria)

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